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Your journey begins right here right now

I can’t remember the last time I rode a horse drunk with forty cowboys for twelve straight hours in the mountains of Ecuador. But if I could, I’d probably tell you it was one of the best days of my life. I know that because that’s exactly what happened yesterday—and it was, in fact, one of the best days I’ve ever had. Three days ago, late in the afternoon, I decided to drive by myself back to Alao to find Pepe Abarca—a well-known and respected Chagra—and ask if I could stay w